EXOTIC AVANTGARDE Spring 2012

Aesthetic hints from India, Africa and Japan meet in a sophisticated compositional language generating a new form of beauty.

Vionnet’s 2012 Spring collection designed by Rodolfo Paglialunga features neo-geo prints, deep, bright colors and lines, sometimes structured, sometimes fluid, and always skilfully conceived. Vibrancy springs from the tension between synthesis and detail. Coral, blueberry, ochre, peony, sand, black, ivory and dark blue: a sensory and material journey of colours and exotic moods filtered through a deeply Western sensibility.

Western art in the early 20th century was inspired by then new encounters with remote artistic languages resulting in what is today referred to as “Avanguardia”. A century later, the future has been reinvented through a cultural melange: Paris and Africa. Couture and naturalism.

In this never-before-seen quintessence of different inspirations, a silk georgette t-shirt with its scarf-like print is paired with a skirt covered in matte and shiny Deco paillettes and beads. A triumph of sheer physical expression and lustre are amplified in textured knits where cotton binding, gilded leather inserts and jet are intertwined with sequins in a meld of embroidery.

Quirky clichés of a more traditional femininity in the form of polka dots and bows are conceptually distorted by crisp organza broderie anglaise dresses and skirts cut like origami.

Macro-digital prints appear on silk twill in cotton satin jackets and dresses. While wide cape like sleeves amplify silhouettes, doubled belts enhance them. Archaic stylizations for skirts and jackets; two-dimensional, like wooden idols, co-exist within the fluid folds of long dresses gliding sensually over the body. These strong contrasts of geometries and colours embody femininity.

Fabrics: silk drap, satin, cady, crepe de chine, crepe, stretch and non-stretch georgette; cotton poplin, organza broderie anglaise, cotton ottoman, cotton satin, fil coupé and gabardine.

A carnal dimension; a playfully cerebral touch of irony like the tiny elephant covered in coloured beads on belts and t-shirts. The same vibrant multi-coloured explosion is found in beading and trimmings on über-feminine wedge high heels.

Highly-lacquered, ivory, red and black bracelets set with coloured stones and studs reinforce the elegant line of an arm.

Press contact: KARLA  OTTO – Stefano Pitigliani – +39-02-6556981 – stefano@karlaotto.com