MOVING COLOURFUL LENGHTS

A touch of chic is in the air. Tapered silhouettes of Vionnet’s Spring Summer 2011 collection come in three lengths: mini, midi and maxi. Liquid colours, twisted prints and chromatic inserts in various fabrics result in an apparent simplicity of well-studied execution. After three seasons, surprising touches seem like now familiar improvisations to Rodolfo Paglialunga’s Vionnet: accordion pleats, scalloped a hem or a sporty belt on an evening dress.

The collection’s core is the tunic dress with new proportions and detailing. The mini’s hem is pointed at the centre or decorated with flounces. With triangular side slits, dresses move sexily about the body opening to expose a glimpse of leg. The skirt has changed, and so has the top for Spring Summer here trimmed with gold chain on silk panels, a leather lace trompe l’oeil-like necklace or a form making bow at the yoke.

Accordion pleats on blouse sleeves and hems of mini-dresses are vivacious. A poplin dress with jersey print sports innovative vertical draping with bands of fabric woven in and out around the waist. In cream or golden yellow for evening, the belt, replaced by 60’s style resin chain, nip the waist in a contrasting colours.

Draping, braiding and pleating are signatures of the historic and new house of Vionnet. Belts cinch and pleats move creating billowing shapes in pleated chiffon. Chromatic bands printed on silk or hemp intertwine and swing like fringe. Prominent prints create a pictorial effect when used as fan-like inserts or trimming hems or necklines. Shirt dresses are surprising. Sleek, but not tight, leather and technical climbing rope belts waists. Occasionally beaded or trimmed with accessory-like fabric and metal gold knit collars and cuffs.

FABRICS

Crepe de chine, double-face silk satin, linen gazar, stretch linen, hemp combined with linen, suede and cotton poplin.

COLOURS

Fuchsia, green, light blue, black on beige, white, black and cream plus splashes of orange, electric blue and dusty rose. Cascading flower appliqués or baguette beading.

ACCESSORIES

Suede or gold-trimmed satin sandals with high heels and platforms covered with woven wicker. Flat sandals with leather fringe trimmed in contrast colour. Bracelets with golden bobbles or out of leather tubing. Belts in leather and technical climbing rope red. Golden metallic chain collars and cuffs. Plaited blond or brown hair with golden stars.