For Spring/Summer 2013, Vionnet culls inspiration from its legendary founder Madame Madeleine Vionnet and the storied maison’s 100 year history. A true visionary, Madame Vionnet recalibrated fashion for the 20th century, influencing legions of designers with her radical bias cuts and signature draping. Turning inward, that foundation is revisited today: reconceived for a modern, active, socially-conscious woman and building a solid block for the brand’s bright future.
At the root of the collection are Madame Vionnet’s sensual, rigorously feminine silhouettes. The founder’s trademark draping techniques are used on double georgette column gowns, chiffon sleeveless tops and belted crepe de chine cocktail dresses. All envelop and enhance the body’s curves without ever constricting it. Asymmetrical cutting creates different volumes and fluid draping effects. Gentle folds on the front of tailored jackets and wide leg pants, allow traditionally masculine pieces to come alive on the female body.
Art deco patterns, stylized flower embroideries, and delicate usage of pearls all commemorate the timeless details and materials of Madame Vionnet’s golden years.
Chosen for their lightness, luxurious materials create impeccable canvases for the body. Sheer layers of silk tulle or technical netting create a veil-effect over draped gowns. The tuxedo shirt has been feminized in silk or tulle. Clusters of metallic rhombus shaped sequins and 3D printed satin applications give shine to an otherwise clean and simple yet elegant and sophisticated palette of white, black and lacquer red.
Vionnet’s new signature handbag, with an inverted “V” graphic, is a collapsible canvas shopper with suede and crocodile inserts and detachable handles. Pearl crusted cuffs and sting ray clutches are glamorous extras. Sting ray, crocodile, leather or satin footwear features curved heels on classic pumps, high heeled mules, or T strap sandals, while a new printed crocodile technique is found on gold sauvage leather shoes.