With the 2012 Spring-Summer collection, Vionnet takes femininity on a magical trip into the meanders of an enchanted garden where romanticism meets irony, and flashes of nocturnal languor combine with the unbridled vitality of luxuriant nature.
Vibrant, all-over prints in the shape of corollas, bees and butterflies adorn the long black draped silk stretch georgette dress featuring flowing, asymmetrical, flared sleeves which unfold to become an unexpected cape, designed to expose a seductive glimpse of a bare back. Conversely, the cocktail dress sports a hem furled like a petal and features a collar that is transformed into a wrap-around stole that falls in spontaneous drapes over the chest.
Flowers embroidered with rhinestones, pearls and beads reveal a chromatic trilogy of blue, silver and white on the sablé silk of a long, pistachio-coloured dress that falls softly over the shoulders, enswathing the body and finally opening out at the bottom like a luxuriant corolla. The gold lame satin and white silk crepon dress – also long and sporting an ornately decorated hem – is illuminated by a shower of tiny, embroidered snow-white crystals, pearls and sequins. Ribbon inserts edged with pearls – as shiny as drops of dew – seem to drip off the shoulders of gauzy, knee-length, tulle poudre dresses or long, uber-glam creations in white georgette, flower-printed chiffon and blue creponne. Bees, butterflies and ladybirds – jewel insects with trembling, diaphanous wings – decorate dresses characterized by intarsia, knots, drapes and asymmetrical lines. A skilful, casual exploration of the endless plastic possibilities of rarefied fabrics such as silk jersey.
Soft, flowing silhouettes – at times, cinched at the waist to create the turgid effect of luxuriant buds – created using the maison’s almost instinctive sartorial techniques, are moulded in the fluidity of liquid silk poplin and crepe de chine.
In this play of eclectic, cultured concepts, fairytale-like romanticism is counterbalanced not only by strong, unexpected graphic signs such as unconcealed zips, which impact upon the fabrics used to create blouses and dresses, but also by striking hints of lime and lobster orange. They all animate the colour palette of the collection of the more subdued shades of orchid, ivory, flesh pink, sand, lemon, slate grey, midnight blue and indaco together with touches of raspberry, tangerine and black.
In terms of accessories, the collection has a decidedly surreal, irresistible tone. Necklaces, bracelets and earrings are studded with white and yellow crystals while footwear features a chromatic meld of leather, lizard and satin enriched by gemstones. Short, ultra-light, organza ankle boots give the impression of a bare foot adorned with bows, butterflies and ladybirds.
Press information – KARLA OTTO – Stefano Pitigliani – +39-02-6556981