Suzy Menkez: with Western fringes, the sharpe cut of the 1940s and the languid drape of the 1930s, it seemed like there was a lot going on at Vionnet. The focus of the pre-collection for autumn was the bird, either as a patter of plumage or shimmering wings created by iridescent sequins. Fur trimmings were another tactile alternative. Rodolfo Paglialunga revisited the scarf dresses, cut and folded from a single piece of silk and pleated dresses where blocks of color broke up the body line.